The world she described is a world partly vanished. Travel too has changed,
along with the Tyrol and winter sports, which makes her book so charming. So
what did she make of it all?
“On November 22nd,” she writes, “we left our London home at 7.30am, arriving
at Kensington Air Station 10 minutes later. Allow, as we did, at least 10
minutes for the weighing of baggage – and the payment of excess baggage
rates! Departing by bus at 8.40am we reached Northolt with time to spare for
a hot drink at the bar, considerably irritated we may add – as were our
fellow passengers – at the recently imposed 5/- per head bus fare and 5/-
per head airport charge.”
Cradock flew to Munich, stopping en route to refuel at Düsseldorf, and
squeezed in a “thoughtful hour with history at the Hofbräuhaus, scene of the
beginning of Adolf Hitler’s first putsch”. She warns readers of the “extreme
poverty” they will find in post-war Austria and Germany; the “infinite
sadness, whatever your national loyalties, in the sight of so much ruin”;
remarks on the sight of oxen pulling carts in snow-bound fields; the need
for a transit visa in Germany; and the prevalence of cars with “US Rhine
Army plates”.
She then travels to Innsbruck by train (“cleaner and better kept than our own
British Railways”). Third-class seats (and sleepers) were still available.
“The feeling of excitement and anticipation mounts,” she writes. “Turn out
the carriage lights, peer through the windows and see the glittering valley
floor flooded by moonlight, sparkling with a thousand lights while the
little train, like a cautious insect, gropes down the mountain side and
comes to rest in the parochial peace of Tyrol’s little capital.”
Innsbruck, she said, was a place where “you must listen, and wait, for if you
belong to that disastrous company that ‘does’ whole countries in three,
four, or five days – stay away – you will not suit Innsbruck and Innsbruck
will not suit you.”
Dining in a local restaurant, “in some alcoved recess, panelled in pine and
decorated with wrought iron”, Cradock invited fellow post-war Britons to:
“eat and drink your leisurely fill and happily forget for a while such
rigours as those inflicted on our restaurant life by the Catering Wages Act.”
Leaving the urban pleasures of Innsbruck, Bon Viveur delighted in the
“delicious” village of Seefeld. Today, the stylish resort is the
self-proclaimed place to “see and be seen”, bristling with wealthy,
glamorous Austrians and Germans, yet what so entranced our writer was its
“prevailing quietude, in which the tinkling of sleigh bells and the swish of
skis make gentle music”.
Hints of what would become contemporary après-ski and a “glamorous” future
were, however, already present: “Such gaieties as a snow bar built amid the
snowbanks beside a terrace… a nightly dancing spot which resembles an
Atelier in Paris – all these enhance the evening leisure.”
Travelling on to St Anton by train – “a silver blue sun-gilded journey through
pine-clad mountain forests alongside the river Inn” – Bon Viveur declared:
“St Anton is fashionable, make no mistake about it.” The town, celebrated
today for its lively nightlife and challenging skiing, was already popular
with strong skiers: “Principally, of course, it is a ski-ers resort of
outstanding runs, ski-lifts and tuition.”
However, Bon Viveur had some words of caution for potential visitors to the
resort (fortunately no longer valid today, given an efficient bus system):
“We were distinctly nervous of the smaller, less accessible hotels in the
surrounding heights above the village. Kindliness is everywhere, with
courtesy and willingness to please. But a hard bed remains a hard bed
however smiling the proprietor and it is not always attractive to face
either a costly taxi home to supper, or a long climb after a day spent in
deliberate exercising.”
Cradock pressed on to the villages of Steinach am Brenner (“especially
commended to humans suffering from an overdose of pace, pressure and
progression”) and Gries am Brenner (“rich in suggestion of woodchoppers with
magical qualities”), passed a happy couple of days in Ehrwald and Lermoos
(“twins in our opinion and lovelier even than Steinach, set in a lovelier
valley”) before reaching her final stop, Kitzbühel.
Here Bon Viveur fell under the spell of what today remains one of Austria’s
most sophisticated and cosmopolitan resorts, discovering: “A faint aura of
old Monte Carlo, an evocation of Biarritz, a whisper of Menton and the
merest rustle of fans in San Remo.
“By night, the amusements are more formal than in any other region of Tyrol,
except perhaps to some smaller degree in St Anton. The evenings are
designated après-ski. Après-ski clothes are worn, and Kitzbühel has the
reputation for being the gayest city by night among all ski-areas.
“Family hotels cater for the tastes of two generations, shutting away their
dance bars from the hotels proper so that paterfamilias can nod, while his
young hold sleep contemptible and frolic till the dawn.”
“Did we like the Tyrol?” asks Bon Viveur in conclusion. “We found it
colourful, childishly endearing, gay and unaffected. We are going back as
soon as we can possibly make the necessary arrangements.”
Cradock’s enthusiasm for travel-writing waned as her career as a television
cook took off – history doesn’t recall whether she ever made it back to the
Tyrol.
Is her book of any practical use, 60 years later? Many of the hotels and
restaurants mentioned do still exist (see right) and much of what Cradock
writes about the Tyrol remains as pertinent in 2012 as it was in 1952. It’s
we guidebook readers who have changed most, becoming much more travel-savvy
than we were 60 years ago. On the other hand, we do still “exhibit a shaming
tendency towards ‘local’ hats with far-from-local clothing”. Some things, it
seems, never change.
Getting there
By air and train in 1952 London-Innsbruck (via Munich), £35 17s 8d return;
journey time: 12 hours.
In 2012 London-Innsbruck (direct) with British Airways (ba.com),
£118 return; journey time: 1 hour 55 minutes.
By boat and train in 1952 London-Innsbruck via Calais-Boulogne 2nd class, £23
10s plus five guineas for a two-berth sleeper return; journey time: 24-30
hours).
In 2012 London-Innsbruck 2nd class, £239 return (raileurope.co.uk);
journey time: 10 hours 32 minutes.
Packages
Erna Low (ernalow.co.uk)
pioneered guided ski holidays from the UK in 1932 when she placed an ad in
The Morning Post: “Austria, fortnight, £15 only, including rail and hotel,
arranged by young Viennese graduette [sic] for young people leaving
Christmas.”
In 1952 A week’s accommodation in a chalet in St Anton with Erna Low cost from
£52 per person, including rail travel.
In 2012 A week’s self-catered accommodation costs from £349 per person in a
five-room apartment, including rail travel.
The inside track
Bon Viveur says “Be sure you have a valid Passport. This can be applied for at
your Local Labour Exchange. Cost One Pound.”
In 2012 A passport costs £72.50 and is applied for at the Post Office.
Bon Viveur says “Pre-ski lessons can be taken in London. Messrs. Lillywhites
of Piccadilly Circus, London, W1 hold classes. Under the direction of a
champion skier, a course of six lessons of half-an-hour costs £1 1s.”
In 2012 A course of six hour-long lessons at the Chiswick Skiplex costs
£199.99.
Bon Viveur says “If you are taking your ski clothes with you by air, travel in
them, those boots weigh heavy on the excess baggage scales.”
In 2012 Ski clothes are lighter but ski boots are heavier and, with the
exception of Swiss, airlines charge standard excess baggage rates (around
£34 each way) for a boot bag.
Bon Viveur says “A pair of skis and sticks to hire costs 1/9d to 3/-.
In 2012 Count on around £50 for skis and poles in an Austrian resort today.
Bon Viveur says “Meat at meals in Austria is accompanied by dumplings or rice
(aristocratic) or potatoes (common). Vegetables are in short supply. Except
in summer they are nearly always tinned.”
In 2012 Austria boasts 48 Michelin-star restaurants and four two Michelin-star
restaurants where you are as likely to tuck into polenta and gnocchi as you
are dumplings or potatoes.
Bon Viveur says “The be-ribboned garlands for wine bottle necks and matching
floral-topped corks which met with such public approval when a picture of
ours was published in The Daily Telegraph, are obtainable at Tiroler
Heimatwerk, Meranerstrasse 2, Innsbruck.”
In 2012 You can buy them from the same shop, still at the same address (0043
512 58232; tiroler.heimatwerk.at).
The best hotels
Hotel Valluga, St Anton £
Bon Viveur says “As bright and well arranged [as Hotel Arlberg] but with
smaller rooms is the Hotel Valluga, a snowball’s throw from the Arlberg.
From 20s per day. Extra for heating: 2s 3d.”
In 2012 Recently renovated, with a cocktail bar, spa, Wi-Fi and iPod docking
stations (0043 5446 3263; vallugahotel.at;
double half board from €195/£157 per night).
Hotel Europa, Innsbruck ££
Bon Viveur says “Even the luxurious Hotel Europa with exquisite rooms charges
only 27s 9d for bed and breakfast. Private bathroom, 7/- extra.”
In 2012 Now Innsbruck’s only five-star hotel, blending contemporary Italian
and homely Tyrolean design (512 5931; grandhoteleuropa.at;
b??b from €156/£125 per night).
Hotel Tennerhof, Kitzbühel £££
Bon Viveur says “Delectable hand-painted furniture (like sleeping in a fairy
tale), beguiling zither player and new private ski lift. The rooms have
central heating or tiled stoves, built like Edwardian matrons on thoroughly
generous lines. Ten days here will cost you £12.”
In 2012 Family-owned since 1957; a sumptuous five-star hotel stuffed with
antiques and fine art (5356 63181; tennerhof.com;
b??b from €291/£234 per night).
The best restaurants
Stiftskeller, Innsbruck £
Bon Viveur says “The little Stiftskeller (three-course table d’hôte 4s 4d and
7s 2d) served us with a midnight dish of goulash and puff-ball Austrian
soufflés.”
In 2012 It’s no longer little (it seats 800) but the Stiftskeller still serves
traditional Tyrolean dishes in various dining rooms and beer cellars
(Stiftgasse 1; 512 570706; stiftskeller.eu).
Karwendelhof, Seefeld ££
Bon Viveur says “Then we entered the beer cellar of Hotel Karwendelhof as
costumed dancers whirled through the Holzhacker and chickens spun on the
charcoal spit.”
In 2012 The beer cellar now houses a casino but guests can still enjoy a
weekly “Tiroler Schmankerlabend” evening of traditional local dishes
(Bahnhofstrasse 124; 5212 2655; karwendelhof.com).
Hotel Alte Post, St Anton £££
Bon Viveur says “Do save sufficient to lunch, as we did, at the Old Posting
House restaurant where the Sachertorte mit Schlag (a hunk of feathery
chocolate cake soused in thick cream) is gorgeous.”
In 2012 Although the Alte Post has been significantly extended in recent
years, the original 18th-century Gaststube remains and still serves
sophisticated Tyrolean food (Dorfstrasse 11; 5446 25530; hotel-alte-post.at).
What to avoid
“Baths cost money. Extra money, 3/- to 4/6d. So be careful.”
“Do not forget a flap-fastening hip pocket on your trousers; handbags look odd
and there is no allowance for them when skiing.”
“We believe a number of middle-aged people hold back from wintersporting
because they consider they are ‘past it’. This is quite fallacious. It is
obviously harder for some very unathletic types who have never taken any
exercise. However, John, a superannuated rugger player and general games
addict, was transformed overnight into a ski-enthusiast.”
“Remember ladies, Britain is judged in Europe by what Britain’s holidaymakers
look like abroad. Just try to avoid, in the interests of our national
reputation, the standard faults Europeans, male and female, deplore in our
womenfolk: a shaming tendency towards ‘local’ hats with far-from-local
clothing, repellent ankle socks with stub-Cuban heeled walking shoes, those
unbecoming cardigans which a certain type of woman considers inseparable
from cotton frocks, and sloppy shoulder bags which give a peculiar slouched
stance to the female sex.”
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Article source: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/9764897/How-travel-has-changed-since-1952.html